Garrett - there are some similarities between the Ni27 and the Ni17 and if you use the Ni17 tail and Ni27 everything else - you will get quite an accurate Ni24bis. You'll need Ni17 drawings though to build an accurate Ni17 or 24.
I am using the Rozendaal drawings as they are the only surviving detailed drawings of the Ni17 (he was working for a German aviation magazine during WW1 and drew his plans from a captured example). He doesn't cover the entire airframe though and some detail is missing (although it's shown, dimensions aren't accurate). The undercarriage and cabanes are not shown either. I have the Nieuport-Macchi drawings which are basically 'modification' drawings that only show some details, but luckily they show the undercarriage and a few other useful parts. I also have a few drawings of Ni23/24/27 series from various sources. I bought a few drawings from WW1 Aeroplanes - their 'original' drawings are very poor quality and almost useless to build from, however their Macchi and Hardesty drawings are worth buying. You couldn't build from the Hardesty drawings but they do help fill in some gaps and give you a good overview of what you are getting into! The Rozendaal translation article from WW1 Aero is also an interesting read but their Rozendaal drawings are again not very readable. I know others have some excellent copies of Ni23/24 blue prints but they don't seem willing to copy the whole set (even though I am happy to pay for them). I'll keep plugging away - in the mean time I have enough to start building. Email me if you would like to discuss sources of plans.
Adam,
I agree - the 110hp Rotec won't drag around a full scale replica. I don't think the R3600 is that powerful either. I visited the Rotec factory (I live nearby) and was kindly given a tour. Beautiful engines and they are well worth the money. But I think they are great for a 100% sized aluminium replica but not quite up to scratch to replace the 110hp LeRhone (or Clerget). I spoke to the guys at the factory but they didn't seem to grasp the point that I need to swing a big prop at low RPM - not a smaller prop at higher RPM. I'm after thrust not RPM. I have been mulling over the idea of replacing the gearing in the bell-housing with a different ratio to reduce prop RPM. This will absolutely void the warranty and is not recommended for the average builder. I'm lucky to be working in an engineering firm that has a great deal of engine expertise.